We hadn’t flown from Southend before and were pleasantly surprised at its peaceful, laid-back atmosphere compared to the stress and hassle of Heathrow and Gatwick, writes Mike Pickup.
A one-hour flight brought us to Groningen’s equally tranquil airport and it was only a short drive to our hotel in the centre of town.
The bikes are the first thing you notice, and being Holland, and Groningen being a university town, this form of transport accounts for some 60% of all journeys. However, there are no Lycra louts here, pedestrians, cars and bikes live happily alongside each other and, despite the crowded town centre, they all seem to avoid each other with well-honed skills. The presence of university students gives charming Groningen a lively atmosphere and an abundance of affordable restaurants and bars, ideal for visitors of all ages.
Having settled into the Hotel de Ville in the centre of town we walked through great shopping areas to the Restaurant de Pijp, buzzing with local business people. We enjoyed an excellent dinner. Then it was on to the Infoversum, a dome-shaped cinema where you lie back in comfortable seats to enjoy movies that are projected onto the surrounding dome above you, giving the impression you are actually in the movie. (Just 10 euros per person.) It makes for a unique cinematographic experience.
Our evening ended with a drink in one of Europe’s largest pubs. Accommodating 4,000 customers and oozing character, the place was busy but the service excellent. Everyone in Groningen, it appears, speaks English and is happy to chat.
Not surprisingly we slept well and the following morning enjoyed a typical breakfast of rolls, cold meat, cheeses and pastries before setting out to see more of this fascinating city.
Groningen is surrounded by canals and easily managed on foot, except perhaps for the 97m high Martini Tower, named after St Martin, not the drink! Originating in 1230 and later re-built after a lightning strike, its carillon contains a noisy 62 bells. An exhausting climb up the 260 steep, winding stairs is rewarded with stunning views. For those with less stamina, there is an excellent viewing area from just under half way.
Nearby St Geertruids Gashuis was constructed in 1405 for pilgrims visiting St Martin’s church. It is built around two peaceful courtyards, both of which are open to the public. The houses are now owned by a housing association and rented to local citizens, a great place to live. The old chapel is still used for services and what was the dining room is used for weddings.
A major attraction in Groningen is the museum. No old stuffy edifice, it was built in 1994, its quirky design by the Italian architect Mendini. One of its main features is a brightly coloured spiral staircase. Whilst some exhibits are permanent, the museum houses a number of temporary exhibits, ensuring there is always something fresh to see. The David Bowie exhibition, popular around the world, ended its two-year global journey in Groningen in March, but Groninger museum is always worth a visit.
Across the road from the Groningen Museum is the railway station. A magnificent structure completed in 1896 and restored in 1999, it boasts an amazing papier maché ceiling. Other intriguing buildings are the Gold Office, dating back to 1635 and now a restaurant, and the modern Wall House, a wall with the rooms on the outside.
There are a number of items of street art dotted around the city, perhaps the most unusual being a urinal designed by Rem Koolhaas and Erwin Olaf. Made of opaque blue and cream glass, this strange but useful exhibit is stored away in the winter to avoid frost damage.
Groningen is also famous for its coffee shops. Whilst they may serve coffee, they are primarily places where you can legitimately buy and smoke cannabis, although as in the UK, smoking ordinary cigarettes inside is forbidden. You would have to step outside to do that.
Our stay ended with a trip round the city by canal boat. It’s a great way to see the enormous diversity that Groningen offers, from old gothic buildings to edgy modern Italian architecture. Just be aware that some of the bridges are so low you have to duck down in the boat in order to pass underneath!
Groningen is a great destination for a short break, there is something for everyone and the locals are most definitely a friendly bunch.
Comments: Our rules
We want our comments to be a lively and valuable part of our community - a place where readers can debate and engage with the most important local issues. The ability to comment on our stories is a privilege, not a right, however, and that privilege may be withdrawn if it is abused or misused.
Please report any comments that break our rules.
Read the rules here