One of Tudor England’s most prominent historical figures has roots right here in Suffolk.
Thomas Wolsey (c. March 1473 – 29 November 1530) was born in Ipswich, and grew up to be one of King Henry VIII’s closest allies. A statesman, Catholic bishop, and the king’s almoner, he was one of the most powerful men in Tudor England - and by 1514 had become the controlling figure in virtually all matters concerning the state.
His legacy can be found across the town. There’s a statue of him at the junction of Silent Street and St Peter's Street, a local school and pub are named for him, and even the town’s theatre (The New Wolsey) is a nod to the historical figure.
But if you head down College Street, you’ll find another piece of his legacy on the south-east corner of St Peter's-by-the-Waterfront church.
Wolsey’s Gate is a stunning brick structure, built in 1528 as part of Wolsey’s wider plans for his own college in the town.
“Everybody calls it a college, but it was actually more of a school,” explains John Norman, chairman of the Ipswich Society.
“Schools are usually for those under 18, but when Wolsey went to Oxford College he was 14. Back then it was more to do with your ability than your age.”
Once Wolsey had accrued enough wealth and power, his vision was to construct an educational institution for the best and brightest – and Ipswich was the perfect place for this.
“It was Wolsey's intention that this school was to be a feeder into Cardinal College, Oxford (now Christ Church College, Oxford) – much in much the same way Eton is a feeder school for Cambridge.
“We also know that the educational programme was underway, although this was a development of an existing school which had been established in the 14th century. The headmaster, William Goldwin, sent Wolsey examples of his pupils’ handwriting and suggested they would soon be speaking Latin in the modern (Italian) manner.”
Wolsey was granted permission from Henry VIII, and in 1528 construction began near St Peter’s Church (which was to serve as the school chapel).
Thomas Wolsey’s College (and the College Gardens) extended from Turret House (the main town gate) to the Water Gate (what is now Wolsey’s Gate on College Street).
“Turret House stood in extensive grounds on what has become the Old Cattle Market bus station. It is clearly named on Pennington's map of 1778, but was demolished in 1843. The north-south street through the bus station was originally St Stephen's Lane but today is Turret Lane which takes its name from Turret House, which was probably the Dean's house, a college entrance gateway and porter’s lodge,” says John.
In order to appreciate the location of the college, it’s important to understand the transportation alternatives available in the first half of the 16th century.
“Broadly speaking, if you needed to go anywhere locally you walked, and this included from the farms surrounding Ipswich to bring produce to market. The landed gentry may have had horses, but ordinary folk simply walked, and if the destination was too far they didn't go. The small percentage of the population who did need to travel went by boat, which was quicker, smoother and less hassle than taking to the dirt tracks, unsurfaced lanes and meandering footpaths. Ipswich was well-placed in this respect, with the open sea, and thus London and the Low Countries a day's sail away. As a consequence, Ipswich boomed.
“Coming inland the limit of navigation for seafaring vessels was St Peter's Wharf (Stoke Bridge). Upstream the river was narrow and shallow, and the environs hereabouts became the commercial centre of town. The Water Gate of Wolsey's College was therefore well-located for visitors from some distance away, and was a key entrance for out-of-town visitors, including Wolsey, when he came to inspect progress.”
An assortment of materials were sourced for the project, including timber and wainscot from Suffolk, white stone from Brittany, and lead which would’ve been brough in by boat (possibly also from Europe).
“We’re not sure how long it took to build, but it wouldn’t have been long,” explains John.
“The gateway consists of a four centred arch supported by octagon brick piers, decorated, originally with pinnacles, one atop of each pier, one in the centre and a further two smaller versions closing the gaps. Unfortunately, at some point during the last 500 years, the pinnacles have disappeared, probably when the structure was smothered in ivy which did additional damage to the structure.
“Above the centre of the arch, carved into Caen stone, is Henry VIII’s coat of arms, now suffering from extensive deterioration - but indicating that this was an important entrance to the college.”
However, the full college and Wolsey’s dream never came to fruition.
Shortly after the construction of the Water Gate, Wolsey suffered a fall from grace. He was unable to secure a quick annulment of Henry VIII’s first marriage to Catherine of Aragon – much to the anger of Anne Boleyn. She managed to convince the king this was deliberate on Wolsey’s part – and as a result he was stripped of his office and buildings.
On October 9, 1529, he was indicted for praemunire, and he later confessed his guilt. He was sent to prison, and died a year later in 1530.
“One thousand three hundred tonnes of Caen stone that had been brought onto site from Brittany, together with 600 tons of Suffolk flints, were removed when the college closed. On the orders of the king, these building materials were shipped to Westminster, for the benefit of the royal building programme.”
Some of those building materials were used to expand another Wolsey project in London – York Palace in Whitehall – which belonged to Henry VIII.
While the full college never came together, what remains is still impressive nonetheless.
Today, Wolsey’s Gate is a Scheduled Ancient Monument, and a Grade I-listed building.
“As a listed building, the Gate is reasonably well-looked after although it suffers from the effects of the passing traffic, and in the past it has been covered in ivy and suffered from buddleia growing from on top. People have suggested that it should be moved to a less busy location, but this misses its main purpose, as an entrance to Wolsey's College on the other side of the gate. A much better option would be to move the traffic, as passing traffic is the primary cause of the deterioration of the brickwork, primarily vibrations from the road, and salt spread on the road, mixed with water and splashed onto the adjoining buildings.”
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